The French Riviera in 24 Hours

Cover image: Berkovich, Adrian. Menton upon arrival. 16 Nov 2024.

The first question that comes to mind after a fluster of warm air and clear blue skies when arriving at Nice Ville is “how is this in the same country as Reims?” The French Riviera seems like a world away from the swampy Rue Gambetta, in terms of both price and weather. However, the Côte d’Azur can be made very affordable by the night train. While the high speed rail gets you to the sun in a shorter amount of time, it becomes more expensive in the end when factoring in hotel prices. By taking the round trip Intercités from Austerlitz to Nice, travelers are already accounting for accommodation costs for two nights. In fact, when considering that time is money, why even look into hotels? Perhaps the winter may not be an appealing time to search for a sunny paradise within the Métropole, but as spring rolls around, take a study break or mental health day from the gloominess of the Marne for the beaches of the South of France. That’s right, one day.

Those who are up for the train intensive journey, but still want to enjoy Sunday at home should take the Friday evening Flixbus from Reims to Paris Bercy and head over to Paris Austerlitz, conveniently 10 minutes away by foot. Travelers should make sure to have purchased the sleeper train car so as not to torture themselves trying to fall asleep in an adjustable seat. After having boarded the train, double check that your alarm is set to 6:30 AM, this is right about when the train will arrive in Marseille.

The next forty-five minutes after Marseille will be a teaser into the extravagant Provence region with roadside wineries and most importantly the glimpses of the Mediterranean Sea en route to Toulon. Afterwhich, passengers receive a fifty minute break from the beach to get ready for the day before the train runs parallel to the water after Saint-Raphaël, as if waking up in a hotel. The heat of the South is balanced by an ocean breeze from the Mediterranean sea, merely a few meters from the tracks. So while it may be tempting to get off at Cannes, it is best to save the anticipation for later in exchange for the remaining hour of the train ride, when the popular tendency to open the windows is not only legitimate, but merited.

Once in Nice, before heading to the boardwalk, it becomes very clear that the entire stretch from Cannes to the Italian coast is one big megacity: the frequency and multitude of transport options as displayed on the board at the station makes the French Riviera incredibly accessible, which is part of the reason that it is traversable within a day for the student budget.

If France had an official game for Monopoly, their version of the Atlantic City Boardwalk—which occupies the most expensive square on the board—would certainly be the Nice Promenade inspiring artists like Picasso, Matisse, and Chagall. While the beach is primarily composed of rocks, the clear blue water actively complements the colorful stucco-walled houses of the Vieille Ville and the modern hotels like the famous Rotonde.

Although the city finds itself in the heart of one of the most expensive real estate hubs, it retains its historical character as evident in the Marché de Fleurs where it is possible to pick up delectable Niçoise breakfast street food in a prime location: the convergence of the beach and old town. After picking up a grab-and-go, it may seem practical to stay a while—wrong. For the purpose of this day trip, Nice is just nice: a jumping-off point to nearby luxury seaside villages. As such, while dispensable coffee machines may only be normative staples of the Sciences Po campus, the quest to explore the Cote d’Azur should be an equally uplifting rush of energy that needs to be used on catching a TER out of Nice in the direction of Ventimiglia. Ensure that the route to the train station passes through the old town, so as to take advantage of the city while possible.

Now, while the Sundial Press certainly does not endorse fare evasion, Nice is the only station where a ticket is automatically required. This is just what we were informed of by the Menton campus. Thus, in the spirit of visiting those who pronounce WEIC (Wake) with a Southern accent (Way-ss) and not practicing what is being preached by the locals (pay the fare), take a 45 minute TER to the quiet fishing village of Menton.

Like the segment of rail between Cannes and Nice, the route to Menton requires constant attention to the window. Oftentimes, during the brief ride, the facade of the ocean through the glass occupies the entire frame, giving the impression of the train physically surfing on the waves. Perhaps the best feature of the ride though is just before reaching Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, when the skyline of the entire principality of Monaco comes into view. The skyscrapers emerging from the sea can principally be compared to those of Atlantis if the underwater land had been excavated. Despite its urban features, the Monegasque pillars of glass complement the quaint villas.

Disembark from the train five minutes later at Menton and, at the earliest convenience, put your swimsuit on. Here, the water is warm and clear no matter the weather outside and a swim is certainly merited. Head over to the Plage des Sablettes for a scenic background of the Basilica of Saint-Michel, the colorful town on a hill—and of course, the Sciences Po campus north of the beach—whilst taking a plunge. Nonetheless, do not be fooled: while the exterior of the wide, red campus building is primarily red, the interior has some work to be done. As such, although admission is acceptable via student card, it is not worth visiting. On the other hand, their student residences carved into the old town are a marvel, accessible via a steep ascent of winding alleyways.

After having dried off, head towards the Menton Garavan station in the opposite direction to enjoy the town boardwalk and a view of the Italian border, situated just two kilometers away with a border crossing that resembles a gas station. If you are interested in walking around the Harbor or checking off another country, take the train to Monaco. The Monte Carlo Casino—where some tourists bizarrely enjoy playing luxury car paparazzi—is worth a peek inside and is free admission, as is the Palais Princier and its panoramic view.

Just two stops away on the TER is the charming Medieval town of Eze. For a rewarding climb, take the hour long Chemin de Nietzche route or the bus from the station that takes about ten minutes. Here, the blend of flowers and limestone houses overlooking the sea offers an unbeatable, rebooting experience. Through the labyrinth of antique shops and gastronomic boutiques, you will find Le Café du Jardin, a truly incredible view point for a late lunch.

When seated with a dinner assortment at this hilltop destination, you begin to realize, there is something comfortable in a minimalist travel experience: whether it be economical (in contrast to the destination) or just the awkward encounter of meeting your cabin mates on the overnight train, hoping that your belongings remain in their place while you are asleep in crowded quarters.

Nevertheless, the purpose of rushing to get here is in anticipation of this scenic definition of a study break, capable of magically clearing any mind. Despite the miniature scale of Eze, the winding nature of the cobblestone streets creates the illusion of each street being novel, yet simultaneously familiar. So upon returning to the overnight train, whenever that may be, it will be under tranquil circumstances.

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